Friday, January 25, 2013

Towers of Svaneti

Towers of Svaneti | Atlas Obscura

Towers of Svaneti

Fortified homes of highland warriors

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Life was never easy in high Caucasus. Nomads from northern steppes eager to get their hands on the riches of Mesopotamia, and Empires battling for supremacy -- Assyrians, Macedonians, Persians, Romans, Byzantines, Arabs, Turks and Mongols -- all clashed with fearless locals. The list of invading armies is nearly endless.
Svans -- a subgroup of Georgians, who speak their own unwritten Svan language, practice blood revenge and sing complicated polyphonic vocal songs -- were the traditional gatekeepers of mountain passes, and since the time immemorial have been hardy survivors, the archetypal highland warriors. Every household in Svaneti is a true fortress. Villages in these rugged landscape are often too scattered to be encircled with a protective wall. Each individual house thus had to be separately fortified.
The tower homes of Svaneti are at the same time, familial living quarters, fortified fortresses of defense and personal treasuries. They offered protection to their owners and to their livestock, and also served as shelters for the most valuable possessions of every family, copies of holy scriptures and religious icons and relics. Most of the towers date back to the period between 9th and 12th century.
The turbulent history of the region ensured that these fortifications remained in use long after similar defenses become redundant elsewhere in Europe. In recent times families have slowly begun moving out into more comfortable living spaces. However, many of Svan towers still remain in use, and the village of Chazhashi boasts as many as 200.
The similar dwellings can be found in a much wider area all over Caucasus. However, the typical Svaneti towers are concentrated in Mestia district, 128 km northeast of the regional capital of Zugdidi. Anyone wishing to see the towers should head to the remote village of Ushguli.
With elevation of 2086m Ushguni is one of the highest inhabited places in Europe. According to local lore in middle ages, it served as a summer retreat for fabled Queen Tamar. Since 1996, the traditional towers of upper Svaneti have been protected as an UNESCO World Heritage Site.

North Ossetia City of the Dead | Atlas Obscura

North Ossetia City of the Dead | Atlas Obscura

North Ossetia City of the Dead

This ancient village and its adjoining cemetery have a beautiful history of death and remembrance

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Reaching this mystifying destination requires a three hour drive, taking you down a dangerous and hidden road befitting of a journey to the City of the Dead.
The village of Dargavs, or the City of the Dead, has an ancient cemetery where people that lived in the valley buried their loved ones along with their clothes and belongings. The valley stretches for 17 kilometers, and the cemetery contains almost 100 ancient stone crypts.
Ossetians say that it helps them understand of how people lived 400 years ago. It is a very mysterious place with a lot of myths and legends. It attracts tourists from nearby, as well as all over the world. It was once believed that if anyone tried to get to the city they would never emerge alive.
Due to the difficulty in finding or traveling to the location, there are not a lot of tourists at any given time. The local superstitions probably have little to do with the lack of popularity, although they do still linger. Archeologists are also very interested in exploring the site more completely, as there have been interesting items found that have attracted some scientific attention.
People who did not have anyone to bury them long time ago would just wait in the massive cemetery until their death. Locals bemoan the young generation's attraction to bright cities, contending that the young are missing out on a lot. Russia has a lot of truly unique places to offer but these historic sites do not attract much attention.
If however one spends some time in North Ossetia, they say it's possible to feel the ancient vibes around the city and its surrounding area. Once you get to the city, you will find what at first appears to be lots of little white houses, but are actually stone crypts, the oldest dating back to the 16th century. In front of every crypt there is a well that was used to tell if a person "made" it to heaven. Visitors drop a coin into the well, and if the coin happened to hit a stone at the bottom of the well, it was said to be a good sign.
Local legends have it that in the 18th century, a plague swept through Ossetia. The clans built quarantine houses for sick family members, who were provided with food but not the freedom to move about, until death claimed their lives. It was a very slow and painful way to go, and in the City of Death they stay.